Well Oiled - Mardi Gras in San Martin Tilcajete

 

Fat Tuesday is boisterously celebrated in the small village of San Martin Tilcajete with a parade. The paraders are coated in what appears, and smells to be used motor oil, sometimes with a red pigment mixed in. Sporting a variety of elaborately carved and painted masks and wearing many cowbells on their waists, paraders jog through the streets making a "huff" sound. I'm no anthropologist, so I'll leave the details to those interested here: https://oaxacaculture.com/2013/02/fat-tuesday-mardi-gras-carnival-in-san-martin-tilcajete-oaxaca/

On with the photos: 

After about an hour of photographing the masked and oiled paraders, it was time for lunch. Under the shade in the town center, a villager was selling Mexican Empanadas, corn wrapped and stuffed with cheese, chicken, onions and peppers, grilled to perfection and ready to eat. She immediately sensed that I was a likely customer, and with not too gentle persuasion, convinced me to buy one for 35 pesos, about $2 US. Judi and I split it, and immediately purchased a second helping. It was one of the best tasting foods I've eaten in all of Mexico, and that says a lot! Seeing how much we were enjoying the meal, others joined in resulting in a sell out.

 After a most satisfying lunch, we took a walk through the village. San Martin Tilcajete is world famous for the many tallers that make Alebrije's - carved and intricately painted figures of spirit beings. If you've seen the Disney movie "Coco", you've seen the animated versions of these figures. 

Some photos from last years visit showing these carved figures in more detail:

The amount of work, skill and imagination involved in producing these Alebrije's is astounding. I've been told that the village has about half of it's population involve in the carving and painting of these figures. It's no wonder that with the level of artistic skills the village is filled with wonderful wall murals.

Along the way we found some of the paraders still jogging through the street, showing an amazing amount of endurance.

All in all, a day well spent. Thanks to all those who participated in the event, and of course thanks to the friendly, talented residents of San Martin Tilcajete for making our visit so exciting.